Review: The Counter in Tunbridge Wells

There’s always a bit of uncertainty when you finally get to try a place that’s been on your radar for a while. After a year of glowing reviews and having The Counter high on my restaurant wish list, I couldn’t help but wonder if it would live up to the hype once I finally did make it through the door. Thankfully, having experienced Tunbridge Wells’ hottest new dining experience last week, I can confidently say that it certainly lived up to my lofty expectations, and - in many ways - even exceeded them.

The Counter, Tunbridge Wells | Credit: Stuart Mack

The passion project of former Firmdale Executive Chef, Robin Read, The Counter opened its doors last May after building up a solid following through pop ups and private dining experiences. Located in a 200-year-old Georgian building in the heart of Tunbridge Wells, the dark and simple exterior of this small but perfectly formed restaurant may make it easy to miss, but once inside, the food and drink speak volumes. So much so, that The Counter has already earnt itself a spot in the Michelin Guide. 

Together with his wife and wine connoisseur, Greta Boccia, Robin Read’s The Counter presents a meticulously curated five, eight or ten course tasting menu with optional wine pairings to elevate the experience. Whilst I’m often wary of tasting menus, conjuring images of tiny portions and hushed, intense dining (I may still be slightly scarred from watching the film, ‘The Menu’...), The Counter pleasantly dispels these myths. The setting was unpretentious and modern, exuding a relaxed and welcoming vibe. Despite the formal menu, the atmosphere was anything but imposing. Stone walls offer a rustic feel, whilst quirky artwork give pops of colour and a friendly welcome was well-received as we walked through the door.

As the name suggests, there is the option to sit at the counter itself to watch Robin Read and his team work their magic in the open kitchen for a truly interactive and unique experience. There are only four seats available at the counter, making it feel very exclusive, but the action is comfortably visible from the other tables in the restaurant too.

After being seated and given the menu to reveal what to expect, we opted for a couple of non-alcoholic cocktails to kick the meal off. Elegantly presented and with eloquent descriptions from our knowledgeable waitress, we already knew we were in for a treat.

Robin himself delivered the ‘First Bites’ course to the table - a trio of amuse bouche with punchy flavours that tantalised the tastebuds. It’s clear from the get-go that sustainability and local produce are at the heart of each of the monthly seasonal menus. With ingredients such as asparagus from Birchden Farm, creme fraiche from Northiam Dairy and strawberries from Myatts of Mockbeggar, it is a true celebration of Kent and Sussex produce. They also grow a number of ingredients on site in their courtyard kitchen garden.

In addition, there’s a focus on lack of waste and using all elements in the cooking, as demonstrated with our second offering of bread, butter and broth. Served on a simple wooden board, this sharing course consisted of two large slabs of deliciously warm malted sourdough, alongside salty butter and a steaming pot of vegetable broth to dunk the bread into. It’s such a simple but clever idea to utilise the ‘waste’ and made for a comforting start to our meal.

As the courses continued, they each had such impactful and memorable flavours. Every time I thought we’d had our favourite dish, the next was even better again but in a different way. The Orkey Hand Dived Scallops with tomato and DOP basil pesto were cooked to perfection; whilst the Wild Seabass with broccoli, sauce nantais, smoked pikes roe and loveage was delicate, buttery and melted in the mouth. The Cornish beef rump cap was beautifully presented and each part of the plate added to the powerful blend of textures and tastes. As we were both driving, we opted for just a small sample of a couple of the wine pairings, but the ones we did have complemented the dishes immaculately.

An unexpected delight was the savoury Elrick Goats Cheese cake, crafted like a Basque cheesecake and served with seeded crackers and beetroot relish. It was a unique and wonderful addition to our meal. This was followed by a surprising and refreshing cucumber and fennel sorbet, before we got stuck into a delightfully creamy Northiam Dairy crème fraîch parfait, decorated with juicy, sweet Myatt’s strawberries. If Summer could be made into a dessert, I think this would be it. Paired with a light dessert wine which had notes of elderflower, each mouthful conjured images of Wimbledon and picnics in the countryside. Absolute bliss!

Scallops in tomato pesto sauce served on a white plate

Finally, the showstopper was the Sweet Treat Tower, which was performatively revealed by Robin Read at our table in a magician-esque stacking tower display. Featuring soft fudge, rich truffles and marshmallows fragranced with dried orange peel from the previous month’s menu (another example of nothing being wasted), this was such a decadent way to end the evening.

Robin Read’s wealth of experience is evident and this slick, charming restaurant is a testament to his skill as both a chef and host. His calm, focused approach enforces the relaxed ambience of the restaurant, and it’s a real treat to watch him at work. The precision and attention to detail in all of the dishes is second to none, but effortlessly leave any stuffiness of formal dining to one side. He has created an articulate menu of playful and imaginative courses which I defy any diner not to enjoy. This is the perfect destination for an extra special meal in Tunbridge Wells and an unforgettable culinary journey that will linger in your memory long after the last bite.

The Counter offer a five course menu for £60; eight course menu for £95 and ten course menu for £125 (exclusively for guests dining at the counter). Find out more at www.thecountertw.com