Review: Bowley's at The Plough - Sustainable, modern fine dining in the heart of the Kent countryside

Last month, we visited somewhere that had been at the top of my foodie bucket list for a while - the fabulous, family-run Bowley’s at The Plough.

Though unassuming from the outside, don’t let the exterior of this traditional country pub fool you. Recently recognised with a prestigious listing on the Michelin Guide 2026 and named one of the top 20 restaurants in England for sustainability, it’s evident that this is one to watch on the British culinary landscape.

We were invited to experience their eight course Kentish tasting menu and it’s safe to say that it didn’t disappoint…

A rich heritage and acclaimed legacy

From the moment you step inside, it’s clear that family, heritage and community are woven into the fabric of Bowleys at The Plough. Framed photographs, historic memorabilia and lovingly preserved original features celebrate the pub’s remarkable past, while its refined, contemporary approach to dining firmly anchors it in the present.

Nestled in the quintessential Kentish village of Trottiscliffe, this award-winning country pub is the product of generations of passionate food and drink experts. Dating back to 1483, the building itself is rich in character and history, becoming a licensed pub more than two centuries ago - but it’s the legacy of its current custodians that truly sets it apart.

Faced with the threat of redevelopment in 2017, the pub was rescued by the local community, who came together to buy and restore it. Soon after, husband-and-wife duo Alex and Grace Yates took the reins, transforming the traditional village local into a celebrated dining destination, pairing elevated cuisine with genuine warmth and hospitality.

At the heart of the kitchen, Head Chef Alex Yates draws on a deep-rooted culinary and brewing heritage that stretches back to the mid-19th century. His ancestor, William Bowley Jr, co-founded Bowley & Bristow - one of Bristol’s largest brewing companies - establishing a legacy that would pass through generations. As the family later moved to the South East, Alex’s father, David Yates, carried that expertise into modern hospitality, laying the foundations for the next chapter at Bowleys at The Plough.

Ever-evolving with its patrons in mind since reopening in 2020, Bowley’s at The Plough has now earnt its place on the Michelin Guide and continues to go from strength to strength.

Sustainable, fresh flavours with a playful twist

We visited on a Wednesday lunchtime to experience the eight-course Kentish Tasting Menu and, despite it being midweek, the restaurant was already pleasantly busy, filled with a warm, relaxed, and welcoming atmosphere.

At the heart of the menu is a clear commitment to sustainability, with locally sourced produce (much of which is grown in the restaurant’s own kitchen garden) taking centre stage. Simply reading through the menu was enough to whet the appetite, yet nothing could have prepared us for the artistry and playful elegance of the dishes themselves.

Upon arrival, we were greeted by co-owner and sommelier Grace, who escorted us to our table and presented us with a glass of Bowley’s own sparkling rosé. Delightfully crisp and elegant, it proved the perfect introduction to the meal ahead.

Our tasting menu began with the arrival of three beautifully presented canapés: a delicate cornet filled with smoked roe, an exquisitely crafted Welsh rarebit tartlet, and a miniature rendition of their signature Dorset crab dish. Adorned with pretty edible flowers, these bite-sized appetisers were as much a treat for the eyes as the tastebuds. The Dorset crab was particularly memorable, served in a spider crab shell with soft white crab meat beneath a delicate tuile crafted from the remaining brown meat: an example of how every part of the ingredient is used in Bowley’s dishes.

The courses that followed continued to impress in equal measure. Each dish was personally presented with thoughtful detail and polished service. From the warm focaccia accompanied by creamy duck parfait and smoked butter, to the standout mains of Chalk Trout with Oyster Leaf and melt-in-the-mouth Glover Beef Fillet with Oxtail Wellington, we were blown away by each course. Celebrating fresh, seasonal flavours and exceptional local produce, the attention to detail throughout was faultless.

We especially enjoyed the playful flourishes and theatrical touches woven into the presentation, which elevated the entire dining experience. The cured red mullet with smoked eel was finished tableside with a beautifully refreshing lime and jalapeño granita, while a vibrant pea velouté was poured from a teapot over the English pea agnolotti - a striking and memorable touch.

A personal and passionate approach

The main courses were accompanied by expertly curated wine pairings, further showcasing the team’s evident passion and deep understanding of food and wine. Each pairing was introduced with eloquence and thoughtful storytelling, adding a wonderfully personal dimension to the experience.

The first was a beautifully crisp and vibrant vinho verde from the Douro Valley, which Grace explained she and Alex had discovered while travelling through Portugal. These personal anecdotes and heartfelt presentations lent an intimacy to the meal that elevated it far beyond a conventional tasting experience.

The wine paired impeccably with the Chalk Trout, which was beautifully soft and flaky, served in a delicate sauce alongside oyster leaf and carefully preserved seasonal accompaniments. This was followed by a glass of Château La Tessonnière, whose rich blackberry notes complemented the tender Glover Beef Fillet exquisitely. Undoubtedly the standout dish for both of us, it was accompanied by short rib, oxtail Wellington, pine, and a deeply flavourful jus. The combination of flavours, together with the succulence of the meat, was to die for!

Rounding off the menu was the decadent St Paul’s chocolate torte - a rich, indulgent dessert named after Alex’s Great Grandfather’s 19th-century brewery in Bristol, serving as a final nod to the restaurant’s deep-rooted heritage. Paired with pecan and malt ice cream, the silky-smooth torte delivered a beautifully balanced sweetness.

In one final playful flourish, we were presented with a “Last Bite” served theatrically in a wooden box: a Lego figure-shaped Caramac filled with miso paste, resting on a sustainable bed of rhubarb. A wonderfully imaginative ending to the meal - and utterly delicious.

Bowley's serve two tasting menus (eight courses and twelve courses) plus an a la carte menu and set lunch menu. Find out more at - https://bowleysrestaurant.com/